Sicilian festivals and traditions
The Devils’ Dance,
in Prizzi the most unusual Easter
that makes even death dance
Every year tourists come from all over
At home and in the streets we dance and eat
“playing” the eternal struggle between good and evil
Easter in Sicily, as in all of Southern Italy, is a triumph of rituals and traditions rooted in the distant past; but there is one village on the island where, on the day when the Risen Christ is celebrated, something very original happens that attracts tourists and visitors from all over.
We are talking about the Dance of the Devils in Prizzi, a festival that involves the whole town. From dawn to late at night, on the streets and in the houses of the small town in the Palermitan area, more than a thousand meters above sea level, Resurrection Sunday is definitely not a day like any other: around, there are devils and death in person, targeting passers-by and, in the highlight of the festival, attempting to prevent the meeting between the Madonna and the Risen Christ.
Sacred and profane are mixed in the representation of the eternal struggle between good and evil, in a tradition that dates back to the 18th century, to 1711 to be exact, and that refers, especially in terms of masks, to the Mexican Festival of the Dead and, in general, to a certain South American folklore of Hispanic inspiration. A festival in which the propitiatory rites that celebrated the coming of spring and the rebirth of nature are echoed. In short, an event not to be missed, all the more so if you have not already had the opportunity to participate.
“The Dance of the Devils,” says Giuseppe Girgenti, president of the Pro Loco of Prizzi, “over the centuries has remained unchanged, fully respecting its main canons. At six o’clock in the morning on Easter Day, the devils “go a pigghiari a paci” in the main churches of the town, a way of apologizing in advance for the future misdeeds they will commit during the day. Devils and Death, in fact, with their terrifying masks will have fun sowing panic among passersby and in the homes of Prizzi residents, leaving the unfortunate in peace only in exchange for a ransom, often something good to eat: eggs with sauce, bread balls, meat sauce, pork sausage even early in the morning. In short, everything is excessive in Prizzi for Easter.”
In the streets and in the homes of the villagers, the devils chase the “victims” and make them dance with them, or pull them aside demanding in ransom of freedom, an obolus (which will then be used to repay the costs of the festival). All to the soundtrack of the Prizzi marching band.
The actual dance begins at 3 p.m., in the heart of Corso Umberto at the Quattro Canti, and features six devils and death. “In the beginning,” Girgenti says, “the devils were only two, but it was preferred to increase the number to make the party more spectacular. The devils and Death twice try to thwart Mary’s meeting with her resurrected son, but on the third attempt the angels pierce the devils, while Death walks away undisturbed; and it is at this point that the Addolorata’s black cloak falls off, revealing a blue one.
“This year,” Girgenti says, “on Easter morning there will be an award ceremony for the Diavulicchi competition, dedicated to children. The program of activities also includes a photo exhibition set up in the Pro Loco headquarters, with the most beautiful images of the Dance of the Devils. As early as Palm Sunday, the three illuminations made by Palermo artist Domenico Pellegrino will be lit. Finally, on Saturday, March 30, conference with professor Francesco Lupo from the Academy of Fine Arts in Palermo, who will talk about “Devils in the World.”” Side note for those with a sweet tooth: tetù, traditional sweets made on the day of commemoration of the dead, will be offered at Easter in Prizzi in an original red and yellow coloring, which refers to devils and death, respectively.
Text by Angela Mannino
